Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Torchlight Procession.....Hogmanay Celebrations Begin



As you probably are aware we arrived in Edinburgh on Saturday afternoon by train.  Quick cab ride to our home for a month, booked through airbnb.com.
After we unpacked, a quick trip to the grocery store for some essentials and then we were in for the night.
The BEST part of staying at this location is the great Wifi!!!!  I hope to keep up with my blog now that my access to Wifi is more constant.


Our first day into the city we tag along for the bus trip with our roomies in Edinburgh.  Three university students from Australia.  Of course they are....we always make Aussie friends everywhere we travel.  Love those Oz peeps!!!

Below is Numa.  She loves ice cream and that is the number one reason why I like her.  lol.



Harry and Bella are great.  He has an excellent sense of direction and she has shared their many 'oops' travel moments which make our 'Hong Kong boy' experience nothing in comparison.


Deb and I had housekeeping chores to do today in the city.  First off we had to find 'The Fringe' on High Street to pick up our Hogmanay tickets for the Ceilidh traditional dance party New Years Eve.
It was pouring rain, and we didn't have a map?  But with many friendly people directing us, we managed to find it, pick up tickets, and be on our way.

We discovered, or should I say heard this gentleman playing the bagpipes outside of The Balmoral Hotel.  A fancy dancy place, big bucks, where we have actually booked an Afternoon Tea in a couple of weeks.
His name is J. A. Nicholl.  The music was awesome and I did video tape him.  But more importantly I got to have a nice chat with him.  I shared with him that I am 'temporarily' changing my name (I'm french as you know) to MacPherson for my time in Edinburgh because I love saying it and I feel deep down I AM SCOTTISH.
He laughed and then started say my name 'MacPherson' with the guttural sound....it was hilarious. What a wonderful man.


Another housekeeping chore we had to do was purchase a monthly city bus pass.  Again a wee bit lost but managed to find it and have some giggles with the gals at the Lothian Bus service.
Then we could wander.  A little shopping and dinner.

Bella had shared with us that the 'Torchlight Procession' was happening tonight?  Never heard of it?  It would begin at 7:30pm and people purchase torches, light them up, and walk from the Royal Mile area down to Princes Street and up a hill for fireworks?  
Well we weren't really sure if we would stay in the city for that.
When we shared that with the Maitre'd at the restaurant were we had dinner, he was flabbergasted that we weren't going.  Shamed us into it.

By 5:30pm 7500 torches were sold out. With that information, there was no way we were leaving now.  We had to see it.

Even without a torch, you could still walk in the Procession.  But the best picture taking and videoing was done on the sidelines.  Oh yeah.

It began with hundreds of Scottish clad musicians playing bagpipes, snare drums, etc. leading the Procession.  They were men and woman, young and old all joining as one playing the BEST music ever.  
Followed by the Vikings which our pictures didn't do justice to.
 (Check out my video on Facebook).  They were fierce and dressed in tradition animal skin costumes with monstrous torches.  Growling and cheering the crowds.
Joining them were all those with torches, without torches, following the music and flames ahead.
An incredible sight to behold. 


The traditions of the fireworks and torchlight processions is reminiscent of the ancient customs of pagan parties hundreds of years ago.
Influenced by the Vikings, people back in those times would dress in cattle hides running around the villages being hit by sticks.  Rolling of barrels, that were on fire, down hills and tossing torches was part of the rituals.  Animal hides wrapped around sticks, ignited, produced the smoke that they believed warded off evil spirits.  The smoking stick was also known as Hogmanay.


Just south of Aberdeen, in a village called Stonehaven, the most spectacular fire festivals take place.  Giant fireballs weighing up to 20 lbs each are lit and swung around on five feet long metal poles, requiring 60 men to carry them as they march down the street.
Fireballs signify the power of the sun to purify the world by consuming evil spirits.


At this point, Deb and I are about a foot in the air, standing on an iron gate, as you could move no longer unless you wanted to get pulled in by the Procession.  I don't want to get any closer to those monstrous torches?  But the view of the torches that went on forever was great.


After the Procession headed down towards Princes Street we thought that was it.  Debbie....yes Debbie wanted to go on The Big Wheel, ferris wheel for the views?  Really?  Ok?
From the top, as far as you could see, there was torches. Thousands of people walking towards the hill for fireworks, which went off already twice.  Both times we had great views of them.


Around 9pm we decided we should figure out how to get home.  Buses were diverted because so many streets were closed.  But there were still a few stores opened on Princes Street and off we went.
Cashmere, even at 50% off, was still outside our budget, but we did get each a pair of slippers and a tartan blanket because it is a wee bit nippy were we are staying.
Oh and some Scottish shortbread....


Every store you go in, you can look for your clan tartan.....if you have a Scottish heritage.
Which thankfully I do now.....
You can refer to me as Angela MacPherson if you please.....lol.


Haggis in a box?  Anyone want me to send some home via Royal Mail?  It just doesn't sound right to come out of a box.
Ann, the home owner of the place we are staying, is making 'Haggis with Nips and Taters' tonight for dinner.  Nips and taters = turnips and potatoes.
Yummo.


Owls continue to appear on our journey.....Thanks Irene for keeping an eye on us.


It is now after 10pm and the Procession is still going?  Unbelievable.
What an incredible experience....and it's not even New Years Eve yet!!
Wait till you see what I bought to wear to the Celebrations.
Stay tuned.


Monday, December 30, 2013

The City of York....2000 years of History


The walled city of York is impressive.  We arrived right below and to the right of this part of the ramparts at the bus/train station. About a 5 hour coach trip from London with views of farms, green, lush landscapes and sheep.

York has 2000 years of history tucked here in North Yorkshire, England.  As my friend Jim says, "York drips with history as many significant history events happened here."

Founded in 71 AD by the Romans it was named Eboracum. 
 In the middle ages it became a major wool trading centre.



Ace Hostel hosts 136 beds in this beautiful restored home within the walls of York.  Two nights we spent here exploring York.


No elevators so up we went to the third floor, up many, many stairs.


Micklegate Bar is the name of this four-story gatehouse.  It was the traditional ceremonial gate for visiting Monarchs entering the city dating back to Richard II in 1389.  There are four main gates, which unfortunately for us, we will explore the other 3 when we return.


This is a view of Micklegate Bar from the hostel.  We begin our day here walking into the city via the city ramparts.  A glorious day to be outside.



Heading up to the walls.  Closed at dusk, makes sense to me since there are sections that you can fall off the wall.


The original walls were built in 71 AD by the Romans.
This view ahead of Debbie is of York Minster in the distance (the two towers) and the beautiful city.


Gorgeous.


An imposing sight as we walked up to the York Minster.  One of the largest medieval cathedrals in all of Northern Europe.  The origins of a church at this sights is dated 627 AD.  
One of the world's most beautiful and awe-inspiring cathedrals.
Let's go in.



A young visitor entranced with the statues.


The ornate rose window is 50 feet tall.  There are 128 stained glass windows in York Minster.


York has been renown for creating beautiful stainglass. This is the East entrance into the cathedral which the doors opening only on Sundays.  Above it is the Great East window.  Created in the 15th century at 76 feet tall it is the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world.


It is impossible to show how immense this building is.  But at the same time, we also felt welcomed and sheltered in it.  Not lost in the vastness.
On the left side of the picture below is the Five Sisters stain glass window that dominates the north transept of York Minster.  This is the oldest part of the church.  The window was completed in 1260.....impressive.


The Chapter House, is a building or room that is part of a cathedral in which large meetings are held.  This one is where day to day business of York Minster was conducted.  The photos of the stainless cannot do justice to the intricate workmanship or size, or effect when the sun shines through them.  


Behind this arch is the choir room. 


The choir room.


Debbie making friends.  This Minister explained to us that when King Henry VIII had all the churches striped during his severing of Catholicism, his men charged into York Minster and took all the treasured items....but they missed one.  He said to look up and there was a Virgin Mary plaque that is now secured above the entrance into the choir room.


The monks hid it for many years, covering it in clay as to not be found.


Deb is the only one worshipping today?


I thought this was interesting.  It is decorations on a grave plot in the Minster but with names of some of my friends back home.  Thomas, Watson and Wentworth......neat.


I found some of the decorations of these plots very curious if not a little humorous.


Obviously there was a beloved dog in this religious mans life.


East view of the York Minster.  One word....massive.


A Bronze statue of Constantine I in York, near the spot where he was proclaimed Augustus in 306 AD.



The next 'One Direction' duo.....they were good.  Rocking the streets on a Saturday in York.
Rock on!!


The Shambles in York are very narrow, cobbled stone streets, with buildings that look like they will tumble down any moment.  Loved it.  



In 1862 there were 26 butcher shops lining the streets.  




Below is a gal making traditional curly cakes. 


I read that back in the day, children would collect the scrapes of dough and wrap it around sticks and cook them over an open flame.



She rolls them in sugar before cooking resulting in the sugar caramelizes after which she rolls it again in sliced almonds and sprinkles it with cinnamon.


Delicious!!!


York University is located here.  Walking across the bridge in the walled city, we spotted rowers practicing on the river.  They were moving fast....almost too fast for my photo.  I'm guessing an University team.


Lunch at the "Punch Bowl" consisted of cottage pie for two.  Much like a shepherd's pie with lots of gravy and fresh veggies.


Oh oh.....busted.
But actually it was Debbie who pointed out the yarn store to me.  She thinks I might need more to occupy myself.  I think she is right.  I knit all winter as a rule....I miss it.
I purchased a beautiful, soft yarn spun using wool from the Bluefaced Leicesters (sheep) raised outside of York.  I also picked up knitting needles, I am ready to go.


A pub called the Golden Fleece, but look at the wee sheep out front decorating the pub.


The never ending fun of Christmas Jumpers.....
We are going to have to get some this week for New Years Eve and Hogmanay in Edinburgh, Scotland.