Politics and religion are not my forte thus why I am very confused about who is who, what it means to be a Loyalist, Unionist or Republican or Nationalists, a Catholic or Protestant in Northern Ireland.
Here is what I have learned through our first few days in Belfast.
Unionists are Loyalists. They are loyal to the Protestant British Monarchy of the United Kingdom. They fly the Union Jack flag and Queen Elizabeth II is honoured with her images displayed in these areas. Defenders of the 'Union' with Great Britain.
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Irish Nationalists or Republicans are mostly Catholics. They support a United Ireland. They believe that England has had influences and rule over Ireland dating back to the 12th century to Ireland's detriment. Their flag is the Republic of Ireland which is three stripes, green, white and orange.
Catholic and Protestant divisions in Ireland dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries.
I researched it to the best of my abilities. If I am incorrect, I apologize. This is a basic generalization.
In any event, Deb and I have experienced, on our first day here, the undercurrent of unrest still apparent.
There has been a Peace between the factions involved in the civil war that almost tore Northern Ireland apart, but things are still not quite ok in Belfast, Ireland yet......
Walking up to the City Hall, we spied two officers watching over many people whom were waving the Union Jack flags in their hands.
While we were inside the city hall enjoying our tour, we could hear loud shouting and drumming from outside. Looking out the window it looked like a parade.
Parade....no.
The people are protesting the removal of the Union Jack flag, that was flying on top of City Hall over a year ago. I asked if he was fearful of the protestors? He said that initial, there were rocks/bricks thrown, but they now march somewhat peacefully. However, this protesting event happens once or twice a week?? For over a year now??
There is no flags flying above city hall.
That brings me to the Murals of Northern Ireland. They depict a history of unrest.
Sandy Row area, which is where the Belfast International Hostel is (and where we are staying) is mostly Protestants.
Robert Dougan, ( a mural in Sandy Row) was a prominent loyalist in Belfast. He was killed by the IRA in 1998.
Along the "Peace Wall" is this paramilitary mural. We didn't see many like these.
Random positive graffiti are quite common written on the walls.
This gate, only opened during business hours, dividing Irish Nationalists and Unionists neighbourhoods, opens up to one of the infamous "Peace Wall". It is about 3 miles in length. Almost 20 feet high, made of iron, brick and steel. Only meant to be up for 6 months during 1969, when the riots started, they have been extended higher, wider and more permanent.
In the Shankill Road area which is Unionist, a mural memorializing the victims of a bomb that went off in the Bayardo Bar killing 5 Protestant, and injuring more than 50 civilians on August 13th, 1975. IRA (Irish Republican Army) claimed responsibility.
Deb and I are grateful to have the opportunity to visit the city of Belfast, Northern Ireland. Ten, twenty, thirty, and forty years ago, because of the civil unrest here it would not have been safe or even possible to visit.
The history of violent conflicts between the Catholics and Protestants is still visible. Seventeen walls are still up between neighbourhood in Belfast. Gates are still locked at night to keep the Catholic and Protestants apart and safe from each other. Colourful, political murals and graffiti cover numerous walls in the city.
We entered this gate as we looked for the murals. The murals are located all over the city of Belfast and much of Northern Ireland.
More than 2000 murals since 1970 are visible.
You can see the barbed wire above the walls. It is everywhere and on everything.
We saw peace and tolerance murals more than discriminatory murals.
Below: This wall memorializes "The Irish Hungerstrikes" by these Irish Republicans in 1981.
They were in a British jail on Irish soil and decided to starve themselves to death to keep their status as political prisoners. This was during Margaret Thatchers time as Prime Minister and she demanded that they be designated as criminals.
Bobby Sands was one of the more famous ones to die at that time.
The prominent face in the mural is that of Kieran Doherty, who lasted the longest at 73 days of the hunger strike.
The writing below the faces:
"It is not those who can inflict the most but those who can endure the most who will conquer."
We are now entering, below, Shankill Road area, politically would be mostly Loyalist. More specifically, it was a centre for loyalist paramilitary forces.
Another very positive mural depicting a 'Peace" loving man, the late Nelson Mandela.
Hey...that mural has what looks like Debbie's handwriting......it is a message from Debbie written on the wall. There are many messages of hope and wishes for peace. But there are also still hate messages.
There she is.....making history by writing on the wall.
The 'Peace Wall' along Cupar Way is not a very safe place even today. Not because of the politics or religion but by muggings and robbery.
We were warned by two different people who lived there to hold on to your bag, camera and phones. I was scared. Tour companies and taxi tours would have been a lot safer. However, we did manage to find this area, and walk the entire length of this 20 foot wall that separated the Catholics and Protestants. We also did a City Sightseeing Bus tour with a great deal of history and information shared by the company representative. Who, by the way, was 'Billy' when we were in the Loyalist part of Belfast, and 'Seamus' when we were in the Unionist part of Belfast.
A physical and psychological barrier. Across Northern Ireland they are called "Peace Walls" which there are 99, separating communities still today. They were told by Parliament, that they would come down in about 10 years? Our tour guide said that will not happen. There are more walls up now than were built after the "Good Friday Agreement" in 1998.
As recently as September 2012 there were riots that left 60 police officers injured.
Thirty years of civil unrest ended on April 10th, 1998, with the "Good Friday Agreement". Even though the area of the murals and the 'Peace Walls' may be still in quiet conflict, I am not at all suggesting that you avoid Northern Ireland, or specifically Belfast. As in any city, there are areas not to be in after dark or exploring on your own. Although many do....
I would only suggest you consider taking a tour of some kind to see the murals in a relaxed, safe environment. They also give so much history and information.
A lot to take in and absorb. Very heavy day....
"I need a drink!" Oh....I don't drink. That was a wee bit of a stressful day. Between the Protestors at City Hall and my fearfulness finding and being at the Peace Wall, we needed to treat ourselves for dinner out.
The Crown Bar or Crown Liquor Saloon in Belfast. One of Northern Ireland's best known bars it was built in 1885. It has beautiful stained glass windows. But what is really different is that it also has 10 booths called snugs. For privacy back in the Victorian period.
Making new friends in Belfast....a truly friendly city with a history.....but don't we all.
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